Kenya Gondo Peaberry

Size

It's been several years since we've roasted a coffee from Kenya’s Gondo factory, but when we tasted this peaberry lot, we knew we couldn't pass it up. With bright raspberry and lime, sweet iced tea, honey, and just a touch of spice, Gondo Peaberry is the perfect kickoff to our 2020 Kenyas.

Kenya produces some of the world's most complex coffees, thanks to a combination of great growing conditions, government involvement in developing coffee varieties, and a unique, highly involved approach to washing coffee. The SL28 and SL34 coffee varieties, selected for the Kenyan government by Scott Labs in the middle of the 20th century, and a washing process that often includes two fermentation periods and a post-wash fresh water soak before drying, are often credited with creating coffees that are exceptionally bright, juicy, and sweet, with a tart red berry character that is distinctly Kenyan. 

Plus, Kenyan producers grade their coffee based on bean size, with AA the largest, followed by AB, then PB, or peaberry. Most coffee cherries contain two seeds, but peaberries are the rare cherries that grow with just one. And while some folks claim that PBs are always the best, and some claim AAs are the top, we're gonna call BS on any claims of one size to rule them all. Sometimes the PBs are the best, sometimes AAs, and sometimes the AB blows both out of the water. But, the different sizes are often distinct, and the size grading both gives roasters a chance to taste more individual lots and make more specific selections, and produces a more uniform-sized bean to roast.

727 cooperative members deliver coffee cherry to Gondo, one of three factories (Kenya-speak for washing station) that make up New Kiriti Cooperative Society. While the AB lot was also very good, this PB absolutely floored us. It's juicy, it's mouthwateringly bright, and it's hella complex - this is exactly what we look forward to in Kenyan coffee.

 

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